ESC recommendations for the Hilux?

[surfimp]

Trying to pick a good ESC for my Hilux, which has just arrived.

Ideally I'd like it to have really easy-to-use forward/brake/reverse like the TEU-101 on my TT-01D, but still have a good enough BEC that I can easily run some high torque servos and possibly some other accessories down the road. Would like something decently water resistant if not waterproof, too.

The Novak Rooster Crawler looks pretty good, has a 6V/5amp BEC, but the drag brake might be too gnarly for use in general driving. Could be a great option if I end up doing some crawling with the Hilux though. Water resistant.

The Mamba Max would certainly be adjustable as heck and let me upgrade to brushless (a mild one obviously) if I ever wanted to, but it's quite expensive. Don't think it's water resistant or waterproof.

Have no interest in the MFU, it's not waterproof and the whole noisemaker thing doesn't really do it for me. Plus it's nearly as much money as the Hilux, too rich for my blood.

Any other suggetions?

Thanks,

Steve

[Mouton]

Why not have a look at the mTroniks range? They are waterproof.

You really do not need a 5A BEC in an High-Lift, although it might sound nice. Even a powerful digitalservo as the Futaba S9351 does not draw more current than 1.5A (startup current and current when stalled). Even such a servo is actually more than you need in a High-Lift. Unless you go for 2.2" tires a Futaba S3010/3014 is acutally strong enough. Even 2.2" tires do not require two "monster" servos as, say Futaba S9351. If you go for bigger wheels/stronger servos you should get the Tamiya High Torque servo saver.

You are only likely to use a strong servo on the steering (shifting can even be done by a mini servo). Even if you install a winch servo that need not be that powerful to get the job done. Lights really do not draw any current to speak of. Even if you light it up like a Christmas tree (13/15 LEDs) they will typically only draw 0.45 A, which is about as much as a Futaba S3010.

[mymonsterbeetleisbroken]

I use an Mtroniks Viper RV 11 esc is my high lift. its fully water proof and the bec puts out plenty for my trucks bluebird servo, which has 14.5 kg's of torque! :LOL:

I seem to be the only person running a fast motor. I've got a 21 turn one in my truck. I felt the stock motor to be to slow, making shifting into first gear pointless (as i don't use my truck for crawling) but the RV 11 doesn't even get warm.

[surfimp]

The Mtroniks was actually my first choice when considering an ESC, but then I read some mixed reviews about out-of-box reliability which sort of put me off. Also it's only got a 1.2amp BEC.

What's the reverse like? I really enjoy the way the Tamiya TEU-101BK ESC has a "double pump" for reverse, I've always found that to be a nice mix between ease of braking and avoiding thrashing your geartrain. Is the Mtroniks similar?

I'm not really looking at crawling at all, but when making purchases like this I always try to look well down the road and divine what I might or might not be into in six or 12 months time, and purchase accordingly.

Thanks,

Steve

[Larrio]

If you must have Tamiya, we have a TEU-302BK (which is rated for up to 23 turn motors and will be compatible with your Hilux)

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=45028

Tower Hobbies
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=45028&search=Go

However for that price you can find more suitable alternatives from other hobby companies. I'd recommend LRP since they have ESCs that can even operated when submerged in water.

[Falcon87]

I have sent two Mtroniks ESC's back to England for repair for no reason they just stopped.I sold them soon as they came back working.I am not a fan of them.Tekin Rebel is what I use in three of my trucks.

[william]

Why not have a look at the mTroniks range? They are waterproof.

You really do not need a 5A BEC in an High-Lift, although it might sound nice. Even a powerful digitalservo as the Futaba S9351 does not draw more current than 1.5A (startup current and current when stalled). Even such a servo is actually more than you need in a High-Lift. Unless you go for 2.2" tires a Futaba S3010/3014 is acutally strong enough. Even 2.2" tires do not require two "monster" servos as, say Futaba S9351. If you go for bigger wheels/stronger servos you should get the Tamiya High Torque servo saver.

You are only likely to use a strong servo on the steering (shifting can even be done by a mini servo). Even if you install a winch servo that need not be that powerful to get the job done. Lights really do not draw any current to speak of. Even if you light it up like a Christmas tree (13/15 LEDs) they will typically only draw 0.45 A, which is about as much as a Futaba S3010.


I disagree totally

more BEC the better when you have multiple servos. The highlift needs a high torque steering servo and saver and if you don't want stutter, or faulter a high bec is key. Also forget the cheapy tamiya savers, get a kimbrough. Kimbrough is the mark tamiya should aim for.

Servos draw a high current when the preasure is on, so any servo can try to squeeze an easy 3 amps from the reciever when a tire is being forced back straight by terrain. Not to mention losing amperage to another servo holding the tranny in gear.

I like the tekin rebel 2, 6 amps and good performance at low to high throttle settings

[surfimp]

Thanks all for the input.

I considered the Tekin as well but it's only a 3amp BEC (per Tekin website), though it does claim to put out a true 6V which is nice. From what I've read of user reviews, it's not so easy getting low or minimal reverse delay with the ESC, for whatever reason. And the PDF manual indicates it needs to be kept away from water.

The Tamiya TEU-302BK is interesting but it has a pretty weak BEC (only 1amp according to Tower, though it is 6V). Also I'm 99.9% sure it's not waterproof. I think it's a re-badged Futaba MC230CR, but am not 100% sure of that.

The LRP looks really good too, except its BEC is only a 5V and unclear how many amps. I do like the bit about "run underswater at full power" though :)

Decisions, decisions. Seems there's no "perfect" ESC out there, if by perfect you mean: Supports up to a 20T or so brushed motor, has good brake & reverse function (no long reverse delays or overly-aggressive & non-adjustable drag brake), totally waterproof and has a 6V BEC that can do at least 5amps or better.

Steve

[Mouton]

Servos draw a high current when the preasure is on, so any servo can try to squeeze an easy 3 amps from the reciever when a tire is being forced back straight by terrain. Not to mention losing amperage to another servo holding the tranny in gear.
That is not true, if you have found it to be true you can save yourself a lot of runtime changing to more efficient servos.:LOL:

I have measured the current flowing thru the cables to the servos and the Futaba S9351 maxes out at 1.5 A even when stalled, when it binds or when I forcebly try to turn it the other direction. I can therefore say that there are servos out there that are strong enough for even those wanting more power than necessary that still draws very little current compared to what many of you may think. (I suppose most of you would consider it strong enough?)

The gearbox servo draws no current to speak of whatsoever. There you will do just fine with a standard Futaba S3003, which lays round the 0.3 A mark when the endpoint are set upp correctly. I the experienced modeller knows how to set the end points correctly even if the radio does not offer EPA.

Now we are upp to 1.8 amps at the most, so a 3 A BEC will do just fine and have plenty of current to spare. If we, however, talk about a Clod-based crawler with twin high torque servos and gigantic tires you need a stronger BECs than 3 A, but this is about a High-Lift. In a High-Lift you have no need for a stronger BEC.

Take mymonsterbeetleisbroken for instance. He uses an ESC with a BEC rating that many might consider too low. However, an analogue high-torque servo does not draw that much current, so he is fine. On paper it is even stronger than my Futaba S9351... I measured on a digital servo only because I have some laying around and knowing that digital servos draw more current gives a "margin" to the currents consumed when you talk of analogue servos. As a side note, my gigant scale Multiplex Rhino Digi4 (25 kg/333 oz) maxes out a 4 A, so even with such an "insane" servo (nobody sensible would use it in a High-Lift) the 5 A BEC is more than you are likely to ever need.

Regarding the servo saver I have had no problems with the Tamiya High Torque-version. When I used the stock tires the stock saver was adequate. I did break with the TLT-1 tires though when stuck in mud under water. I have since used the High Torque version. Using a too powerful servosaver is not a good idea either, that way you might end up breaking a steering knuckle or you linkage instead. Another servo saver that works (and looks similar to Kimbrough) is the one Traxxas use in the Stampede. Keep in mind that not all use 4WS and 2.2" tires in the first place...

I am not saying a 3+ A BEC is bad, I am simply saying you have no use for it. I base that statement on actually having measured the current, so I am not speculating freely here. Realizing that widens your choice of ESCs quite a lot.:Good Point:

William, out of curiosity, is the Tekin Rebel 2 easy to waterproof? I noted in its manual that is is not factory waterproof.

surfpimp, I now use a waterproof mTroniks, which works great. I previously used an LRP that had an unrated BEC-current. It worked fine too. My LRP was not waterproof but I did waterproof it myself using 1:1 car wheel bearing grease (it can withstand the temperature and does not lead current). Whatever you go for make sure everything is waterproof(ed) because it really is loads of fun driving the High-Lift in submarine mode.:Tamiya1:

@Larrio, what about the BEC output of the MFC-02? How many amps are the servos allowed to consume if you run the MFU in a High-Lift?

[mymonsterbeetleisbroken]

yep! like i said, i've got an Mtroniks RV 11 in my truck and it puts out plenty of power for my trucks Bluebird high torque 14.5 kg steering servo.

I've got 2 RV11's in my runner TXT-1. Each has its own battery and the esc's are linked together with a Y lead. 1 of the esc's powers the receiver and 2 hitec 645 MG high torque servos, again with no problem at all.

I've got about 6 Mtroniks esc's and i've not had a problem with any of them.

[surfimp]

Thanks all, I'm reconsidering the Mtroniks.

Mouton, do you have that digital servo that pulled 1.5a static in the same truck with the Mtroniks? Since the Mtroniks BECs I've seen are only 1.2amp max, it'd be interesting to know if you're hitting any snags.

Also, is the Mtroniks BEC 5V or 6V?

Steve

[paintstikker]

I'd have to say I've had a bad experience with the Mtroniks ESCs. I've had two RV-15s and they both blew up running 19t motors; I got replacements but promptly sold them to get something else.


Now the Rooster Crawler is kind of overkill, and under kill. You don't really need that much of a BEC, heck I was able to steer WELL with a Futaba S3003 w/ a Novak 610-HRV on the rocks!. Of course I now have a Z590 in it so it's always going to be fine, and I can turn the tires from a standstill (stock, and mudslingers from RC4WD).

I was running a Checkpoing Money 19t, then swapped to a Novak SS5800, but as it is now winter again I've decided to change back to brushed permanentaly so I can go through water (if you've seen some of my videos on youtube, I'm usually in water). I'm now running the 610-HRV again, with a Electrifly S600 550 sized motor. It gives good crawling power on the rocks with 7.2V, and has around a cool 28MPH on 10 cells. I've disabled the BEC on the ESC a couple times and ran 14.4 (probably shouldn't, but it's novak so it should be fine), it's as crazy as my TXT-1 on the same setup except with a Super Duty and two S600s.

I own two Teking Rebel 2's. I don't find them too great; I haven't been able to get them to stay cool running 4T under their motor limit w/ any gearing, though the cell count works out fine if I stay above a 19t motor. I mean if I try to touch the heatsink they will burn me. I'd believe it's just an old outdated design not meant for todays tech and motors.

[surfimp]

It's funny, the people who say their Mtroniks work flawlessly often seem to be from Europe, while those who indicate they've had problems are often from the US... wonder if it's an export thing? Hmmm.

The main reason why I'm looking for a bigger BEC is because I want to be able to run 2.2s, and possibly two steering servos (for independent 4WS), and possibly a winch and some lights... you get the picture. Running a separate BEC is probably going to be my best bet, the Castle BEC is 10amps which should definitely be enough for my needs. I was just hoping for a "one shot deal" kind of solution, but I don't think it exists based on what I've seen and read so far, unless there's a way around the super aggressive drag brake on the Rooster Crawler (I read a suggestion to use some forward throttle trim?)

Steve

[spankrjs]

I use a Pro Boat ESC in my Highlift. Dont know any of the specs on it. It works fine on my HiLift with 2.2s and a heavy duty steering servo. 100% waterproof. But, I just use fornt axle steering and run the stock motor. Lower turn motor might be too much. It has got hot twice and shut down, but all I did was turn power off to it, turn it back on, and it continued running. Pretty much no reverse delay either. Has no drag brake effect at all. Works good for mudding and general bashing. Probably not the best for crawling. Work underwater though.

[trailqeen]

what about a plan ol, rooster

[surfimp]

Just to circle back on this thread... I ended up going with a Mamba Max and a Koolflightpower Ultimate BEC :)

I'm not sure whether or not I really "need" the adjustability of the MM or not, but it's fun to play with via the Castle Link.

My first outing with my rig, it all seemed to work just great. I ended up running a RC4WD R2 tranny in my Hilux along with an Integy 55T lathe motor and 8T pinion, and with the Mamba setup to forward->brake->reverse and 80% drag brake, everything worked just great. I could use a little more wheelspeed for steep ascents & descents, thinking a bigger pinion (12T or 16T probably) will do the trick.

Anyways, that's where I'm at :)

Steve

[scalenut]

I use a tazer 12T in my high-lift because it has so much low end punch,it will pull the front tires off the ground in 2nd gear,I'm not running the stock motor,but I do have 2.2's on it.

[Suprachrgd82]

Supra tried several on his High Lift before finding one that works out well.

Tekin Rebel-worked perfectly. Supplied plenty of power for both servos, and ran smoothly.

TEU101-Barely supplied enough power to the servos, and was pretty jerky.

TEU302-Supplied plenty of power, but was really jerky.

LRP Runner waterproof-Supplied plenty of power, but was really jerky.

Hitec EZX-R-Plenty of power, and (to Supra) ran super smooth.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDEM6&P=7

Supra really likes the Hitec. Supra noticed that when the throttle or reverse was applied, the truck would "buck" from a spike in power to the motor. Supra didn't like that. The Hitec was the only ESC to accelerate smoothly and preserve the scale nature of the truck.